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If you desire to do the task right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and actually see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
It is 2 separate jobs. First, you get to handle powder fouling. Second, you need to get rid of copper fouling. Just then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning products out there. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleansing rods. They are available in.
Remove the brush, tube it down again, and put it aside to dry. Clean off the cleaning rod with a paper towel. Take your patch rod, and put three solvent spots up the bore. The last one need to come out almost white. When it does, follow with a dry patch.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done.
If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent restore the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent patch through, and if it comes out tidy, you're done, however if it has green or blue stains, back to the J-B.
Now, some general notes. Some barrels copper-foul much even worse than others. As a rule, the more you invest in a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will foul. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary procedures work? I doubt it. I have actually had one or 2 cases where a barrel suddenly started to group as I reached completion of the procedure, but I've had even more break-ins that made no distinction at all.
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They work, in some cases, however if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore however excellent, and considering that I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the chance. Likewise, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend upon their guns going bang. They want them spotless. And spotless is a great way to go.
The steps to properly clean your rifle depend upon whether you are doing a field removing or total disassembly. We'll cover fundamental field stripping in this post. Due to the variety of rifles, complete disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this short article. This is the most important step in the whole cleansing procedure.
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Utilizing a cleaning tool, such as a energy brush or cleaning up swabs, and remove any loose particles that might be discovered within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be gotten rid of with a light application of cleaner and permitting it to sit for a few minutes prior to brushing.
One typical myth is that more is better when it comes to lubrication of your gun.
Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. Enable it to sit, and keep in mind that removing copper can take a while.
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If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Expense Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.
What you do not desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry out therein. So once you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of spots that have been damp with a regular cleansing solvent. Run 3 or four dry spots down the bore to remove any staying solvent.